Enclosure types

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PVC enclosure

 

Pros: Great at holding in Heat and Humidity at more steady levels, can be found on the secondhand market generally for less than buying brand new.

Cons: Expense.  PVC enclosures can vary in price to several hundred dollars depending on supplier, and quality/size of PVC material used.

Hides: 2 hides are suggested with one on the warm side and another on the cool side.
Can be large (Adult BP recommended Enclosure size minimum 4’x2’x18”)

Heating options:  Depending on style of enclosure can be heated from above with use of a Radiant Heat Panel or a Ceramic Heat Emitter.  Or belly heated from below with appropriately sized and installed heat tape.  All heat sources should be attached and regulated by a quality thermostat. 

 

Setups can include both heating options if and where required.

 

Rack System

Pros:  Can have multiple snakes in a rather small footprint.
Cons: Can be expensive depending on the number of tubs and you may need to have multiple sized tubs/rack setups to upgrade the bin for your Ball Python as it ages and grows.  Cannot generally “See” your Ball Python as most tubs are opaque or solid and not see through. 

Hides: No necessary in most cases (unless using clear tubs), If hides are used at least one on the warm side and if room permits one on the cool side appropriately sized to the tub and animal.

Heat: Heat for Racks is provided by Heat tape that must be regulated by a quality thermostat.

 

 

Single Tub Enclosure

Pros:  This basically mimics the Rack system but in a single enclosure style.  Generally inexpensive for a basic setup.  Hold in heat and humidity well. Tubs are widely

available at many hardware stores and other stores like Walmart, Target etc. and are relatively inexpensive.
Con’s: If “Looks” are a thing then this is likely not the option you want as most commercial tubs that are used have limited opacity so you cannot see in the tub without removing the lid. Need to consider tubs that have locking lids otherwise your snake could escape easy.

Hides: not totally necessary, but can be on cold and warm side

Heat: Heat tape or Under Tank Heater regulated by a quality thermostat as suggested above.

 

 

 

Glass enclosure

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Pros: Most Chain Pet Stores have these! Can often be found on the secondhand market at a lower cost.

Cons: Poor material to effectively maintain proper requirements to house a Ball Python though It is possible, if modified, as they generally have too much ventilation (top lids are generally screens) and the cost of modifications/supplies can cost almost as much as a PVC enclosure, without sufficiently meeting the animals needs in my opinion. Does not maintain humidity well. Does not hold in heat well.

 

If this is the only option available here are some of my suggested modifications

Heat: ceramic heat emitter placed on the “Hot” Side of the enclosure Attached to a quality thermostat with the thermostat probe a few inches under the ceramic bulb.  (Using hi temp zip ties to dangle the probe a few inches below the bulb works great).  You will need to monitor temps inside the hide with a temperature gun or thermometer to dial in the thermostat to the temperature required to get the inside of the hide to the optimal temperature range.  (Yes, the thermostat may need to be set to 95+ to get the hide/hotspot to the 87-90 range) (ambient temperatures will play a big factor in this the warmer your ambient temperature the easier you can dial things in properly)

 

Lid: Cover 80-90% of the top of the screen with either some type of an acrylic sheet or HVAC Silver Tape to help keep in humidity.

Sides: Black out or cover 3 sides leaving the front uncovered with either contact paper or foam board etc. to help create a more secure environment.

 

Temperature Monitoring: With Glass being a notoriously poor insulator and rather acts as a conductor it’s suggested to place at least 1 or 2 digital thermostat / Hydrometer sensors inside the enclosure one on the hot side and one on the cool side (Govee is a good option for this).  (Do not use anything that is adhesive or stick-on in the inside of the enclosure as it could stick to your snake and cause a ton of other problems)

You will likely need to rehydrate the substrate more often with this enclosure.  Do not spray but rather poor a small bit of water into the substrate to let the underside soak it up.  Just don’t allow water to become standing at the bottom of the tank. (Topmost portion of the bedding should still be mostly dry to the touch but moist under it).